Less than half a day’s hike from the walk’s starting point at the Nitmiluk Centre, a Jatbula walker enjoys cool blessings for her efforts at Northern Rockhole.

Walkers near the end of day 1, which finishes at Biddlecombe Cascade, 8 km from the track’s start.

Jatbula Trail sign.

White sheets of pure water flow down multiple rock terraces, providing an attractive backdrop to the first campsite along the one-way track, and another top spot for a swim. The site has a toilet, pit BBQ and emergency call device.

More than 750 plant species have been recorded in Nitmiluk NP. The sundew, or nurik, at Biddlecombe Cascade has a single curl like a floral version of the Leunig character Mr Curly.

A salmon gum stands tall on the Jatbula Track, in Nitmiluk NP, Northern Territory.

17 Mile Falls, Jatbula Track, NT.

Jawoyn elder Lazarus Ford and Jennifer Byrne study some of several dozen motifs, including emus, in The Amphitheatre.

More than 750 plant species have been recorded in Nitmiluk NP, including clusters of water lilies – called ngawkngawk in Jawoyn – that edge the pools at Crystal Falls

Biddlecombe Cascades on the Jatbula Track in the Northen Territory.

An unnamed tirubtary of 17 Mile Creek drops an estimated 30m at Crystal Falls, at the end of the second day’s hike. The campsite is beside the river at the top of the escarpment.

Green tree ants provide zingy, citrus-flavoured bush tucker by the handful.

The bold blossoms of eucalypts such as the woollybutt, or yiwal, appear May–September.

An ancient catfish motif is painted onto the rock walls along the Jatbula Track. There are 420knwon rock art sites in Nitmilus National Park, but one of the few that tourists are encouraged to see is The Amphitheatre, which is reached on the third day of the hike.

The Jatbula Trail runs through the south-western corner of 2928sq. km Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park, which is owned by its traditional custodians, the Jawoyn people. This smaller southern neighbour of Kakadu offers its own distinctive spectrum of environments, from monsoon rainforests to savannah to spectacular gorges.

Hikers hover around the campfire on the second-last night. Since this photograph was taken, the park board of management decalred that campsites along the track are fuel-stove only areas.

Jennifer Byrne pauses to take in the majesty of the Crystal Falls.

Jawoyn man Ryan Buruwei, a member of the park board of management, holds a handful of fruit from the latpul vine, considered a real bushtucker treat that keeps the mouth moist.