Notes from the field: Red earth energy
One day Candice was huddling in a woolly jumper in her home on New Zealand’s South Island. Next, she was revelling in the T-shirt-friendly winter and extraordinary culture of Alice Springs, in outback Oz, where she attended the 10th anniversary of the Parrtjima festival.

“The desert changes you,” Candice says. “Despite being a born and bred east-coast water lover, I’m continually drawn to the outback. There’s something about the deeply red earth, clear starry night sky and vast expanses that’s always rejuvenating.
“And this time, when I stepped inside those festival gates, I experienced a whole new energy. Parrtjima is unique, using modern technologies and contemporary art styles to bring First Nations storylines – thousands of years old – to new audiences.
“With that red dirt beneath my feet, the Tjoritja/MacDonnell Ranges as a backdrop, and refreshingly cool, crisp air, I watched as kids danced in moving projections of First Nations paintings; and as families, mentored by Elders, painted ancient symbols in the sand.
“One aim of the festival is to expose the beauty of Indigenous culture to the wider community. But it’s also for the next generation of the First Nations community – to ensure ancient storylines are preserved and to encourage cultural pride. This word ‘pride’ arose repeatedly as I did my interviews.
“I was privileged to sit down for a chat with Bobby West Tjupurrula, a Papunya Tula artist hailing from an artistic family dynasty. Despite being an award-winning artist with works hanging in esteemed galleries here and overseas, Bobby was clearly humbled by Parrtjima’s reimagining of his work, and by his inclusion in the festival.
“As his family – all here for opening night – watched on, Bobby told me, ‘It’s the first time for my family and for me, for everyone to come here. I’m so excited and really proud.’”