Day dawns on Oxley Street shops, secured against the threat of vandalism.

Tony No. The promise of a seasonal job picking fruit lured this young Korean traveller from Sydney to Bourke. But after a long train and bus journey he discovered there were no fruits for his labour. “It’s very hot here; I die out here,” Tony said, as he hurriedly organised a return passage. In previous years the region’s labour-intensive horticulture and cotton crops have provided reliable employment, and vital economic impetus, but long-term drought and reduced water allocations have stalled most operations.

Phil Sullivan, conservation officer. “We have our differences but we are all here because we love it,” Phil says. “We are moving forward as a nation, too, and a lot of that has come from the bush and places like Bourke.”

Andrew Hull, latter-day Lawson. “Writers like Lawson, seeking to define Australia, found unique qualities in the landscape and the people out here. It’s the dynamics of these communities that inspire me to write poetry.”

The Darling River sashays through town following summer rain. “The mood in town changes overnight when it rains,”says mayor Wayne O’Mally. “Suddenly people have options.”

Sandy Taylor-Smith, artist-in-residence. A brief flirtation with Bourke in 2005 to produce art for the inaugural Yaamma Festival soon blossomed into a full-blown love affair for the Victorian-based artist, pictured with her recycled mermaid Matilda. When not crafting entries like this in the region’s annual scarecrow competition, Sandy coordinates Bourke’s Waste to Art project, devises grand Yaamma parade sculptures or conducts children’s art workshops. Her work has also been used in the construction of the Back O’ Bourke Centre. “I just can’t stay away,” Sandy says of her affection for the western plains.

Team Simmonds, motocross legend. Talented motocross and supercross rider Tye Simmonds (third from right) lacks neither trophies nor support from his family, including (from left) cousin Clay, uncle Scott, sister Chelsea, father Greg, grandfather Frank and uncle Peter. The 15-year-old – an eight-time Australian champion and emerging international star – spent most of 2007 competing on the US circuit, securing a lucrative sponsorship deal in the process. “I’m proud of him alright,” said Greg of his ambitious boy from the bush, whose helmet bears a Back O’ Bourke logo.

Russell Mansell, boatbuilder. Russell spent five months covertly building the 55-tonne replica paddle-steamer Jandra in his fruit-packing shed for the people of Bourke. It was one of the town’s worst-kept secrets.

John McDonald, horticulturalist. Passionfruit are one of several new tropical fruits being trialled at the Darling River Nursery. “It’s a land of extremes, but so dry that we don’t have any pests,” John says.

Madeline Samson, learner shearer. “We had dust storms for shearing last year and rain and mud this year,” says Murray Bragg, manager of Beemery station, where Madeline was hard at work on one of nine stands.

Mick Williams, police officer. “My grandfather [pictured] was Frank Williams, the first Aboriginal policeman in NSW. When I first saw his picture I wanted to wear his uniform.”

Sam Maroulis, businessman. During his seven years at the helm of Darling Irrigation, Sam has weathered prolonged drought, cotton industry reform and dramatic irrigation cutbacks. “And we’re still here,” he says.

On opening in 1888, the North Bourke Bridge became the first bridge over the Darling and the first lift-up design in NSW. It was prefabricated in England and transported in sections.

Ellie-May Milgate, Bourke Amateur Swimming Club. Sizzling temperatures ensure healthy crowds at Bourke’s pool during the October–March season and its amateur swimming club boasts 115 diligent members.

Alf Steincamp, truck driver. Bourke’s spot at the junction of three major thoroughfares – the Kidman Way, Mitchell and Kamilaroi highways – feeds the New Vogue Roadhouse (opposite) a stream of hungry truckies.