Walpole: Land of the giants

Seven great WA parks and reserves are being grouped into a new proposed area known as the Walpole Wilderness.

Climb to the pinnacle of one of Western Australia’s newest national parks, and you can soak up a 360-degree view over large parts of the proposed Walpole Wilderness, a 3630 sq. km haven of national parks, nature reserves and forest conservation areas in the state’s south-west. Abundant in towering trees, threatened ecological communities, ancient plants and animals – many endemic to the region – wild rivers and calm coastal inlets, the Walpole Wilderness forms a large chunk of Australia’s only internationally recognised biodiversity hotspot.

Although logging features prominently in the area’s history, an increasing number of visitors are coming to recognise the breathtaking natural environment here. Walpole-Nornalup National Park alone has seen visitor numbers more than double during the past 10 years to about 194,000 per year. This has been partly a result of the construction of the excellent Tree Top Walk, where you can wander in the canopy of giant tingle trees, some 40 m off the ground, on one of the world’s longest canopy walkways.

Located about 450 km south of Perth, the area has a handful of excellent hiking trails, plenty of scope for river and inlet paddling, and some unique interactive forest sites.

For example, beneath the 39 m Wilderness Wall of Perceptions at Swarbrick, in Mt Frankland South National Park, you can reflect on the hard-fought forest campaigns that halted 25 years of logging here. Beyond the wall, inscribed with the words of local environmentalists, politicians, traditional owners and forestry workers, local artworks hang from some of the tallest and oldest trees in Australia.

Continue along the tourist trail to the red tingle forests outside Walpole, and the fire-hollowed base of the Giant Tingle Tree. This is the world’s largest-girthed eucalypt still living, with an amazing 24 m circumference. Just near here, don’t miss the Valley of the Giants.

But if you crave a bit more isolation, head to the only walking track in Mt Lindesay National Park, a 10 km, 2.5-hour return to the summit of the 385 m mountain. It’s a beauty, and we had it completely to ourselves.

The park itself was only declared in 2004, and contains fragile and threatened ecological communities.

The fun begins at the end of a dirt track, a short drive out of Denmark. From the car park, it’s a quick downhill run to the bridge over the Denmark River, then uphill all the rest of the way. After the steep climb away from the water, the trail eases, passing through jarrah and marri woodland, with ferns and copious wildflowers in spring.

After about 30 minutes on the trail, the track levels out beneath a dense canopy of towering ferns, then climbs steeply to emerge onto a flat granite slab offering the first good views of the mountain.

You’ll climb steeply through jarrah woodlands and ferns, and power up granite slabs to the windy summit of the ancient monadnock – a residual hill standing prominently above the eroded country around it. Along the way you’ll be rewarded with dramatic views over Denmark’s coastline.

In wet weather, hikers need to be aware that the track crosses many mossy granite slabs that can be quite slippery. Towards the top, cairns need to be relied upon to find the route across the slippery slabs to the start of a steep, granite ascent. Keep a close eye on the silver arrow markers.

About an hour’s walk from the car park, climbing directly up the slab, you’ll come to a small knoll beneath Mt Lindesay’s summit. Here, we got our first good views of Wilson Inlet, named for Dr Thomas Braidwood Wilson who gave Mt Lindesay its moniker. His ship ran aground in the harbour near Albany in 1829, and while repairs were carried out, Wilson set off into the scrub and named Mt Lindesay (after Colonel P. Lindesay of the 39th Regiment), and the surrounding peaks for three surveyors-general.

The final 15 minutes to the summit are gentler on the legs as the track continues along a ridge studded with grass trees, banksias, bottlebrush and stunted pines.

At a small saddle beneath the summit there are good views of Mt Manypeaks, the Porongorups and Stirling Ranges to the east.

On the top, a white pole and historic plaque mark the highest point, and a trail loops around the broad summit, leading to outcrops of coarsely sculpted granite formations.

Resting on piles of wind-weathered rocks, we weren’t in any hurry to move on from our 360-degree view of the world. Mt Lindesay’s summit towers over smaller monadnocks and a savage strip of coastline beyond.

You’d need a month to fully explore the Walpole Wilderness, but only a few hours to see it stretched out before you from the summit of Mt Lindesay.

The Essentials

How to get there:  To reach the track up Mt Lindesay, turn off the South Coast Highway on the western side of the Denmark River, take the signposted turnoff north onto Hollings Road and turn right onto Scotsdale Road. After 8 km, turn right onto Mt Lindesay Road and continue to the trailhead. Access is partly sealed and suitable for all vehicles. There is mobile reception at high points on the trail, but no water beyond Denmark Creek.
Places to stay: Facilities in Mt Lindesay National Park are limited to a toilet. Campsites at Crystal Springs in D’Entrecasteaux National Park, east of Denmark, cost $6.50 (adults) and $2 per child.
Nearest town: Denmark – best place for food, fuel and meals.
Best season: Spring, when WA’s famous wildflowers are blooming.
More Info: Website