Life on Lord Howe

Like a canary in a coalmine, the dainty anemonefish is becoming an early-warning system for rising temperatures in tropical seas.

Our small vessel gently rocks on the southern reach of the Lord Howe Island lagoon. A breeze whispers around two rainforest-clad mountains, their flanks dropping precipitously to the sea. Looking over the side of the boat, it’s possible to make out every inch of the reef, including riotous brigades of brightly coloured fish. Among them I hope to find Lord Howe’s very own Nemo, the McCulloch’s anemonefish, which is found only in and around this idyllic puddle.

Enclosed by the world’s southernmost barrier reef, Lord Howe Island is 1000 km south of the Great Barrier Reef and 780 km north-east of Sydney. In 1982 the Lord Howe Island Group (comprising Lord Howe, Admiralty and Mutton Bird islands, and their surrounding marine environments) was World Heritage listed. Within 20 years the island’s underwater world was further protected in the 3485 sq. km Lord Howe Island Marine Park, which encompasses both State and Commonwealth waters.

And it’s little wonder. The marine environment of this isolated speck of NSW is renowned for its populous mixture of tropical and temperate species delivered on converging currents. In these rich waters, cool-water species such as New Zealand fur seals mix with hordes of green turtles that have hitched a ride from the Great Barrier Reef on the East Australian Current (EAC) to set up home. This is the most southerly point in the range of many tropical fish. And 16 fish species are found nowhere else on earth but in this ecological hotspot.

Browse the gallery of beautiful Lord Howe Island photography

For the full article, grab a copy of Issue 96 of Australian Geographic, on sale now.